Tiago Teles "Raiz" Tinto '22

Tiago Teles has emerged as one of Portugal’s top winemakers, and he has done so as an advocate for natural wines that reflect their terroir. My relationship with Tiago dates back several years, to when I was introduced to him and his young winery by João Roseira of Quinta do Infantado. I was immediately struck by the sensibility of the wines, the approach of using the freshness of Bairrada to produce wines with the utmost drinkability.

Back in those days, Tiago produced just two wines, “Gilda” and “Maria da Graça.” The “Raiz” tinto is a relatively new label from Tiago, this version essentially the same wine that used to be called “Maria da Graça.” It’s a blend of Castelão and Syrah, sourced from two excellent and important vineyards in the heart of Bairrada. Tiago coferments the grapes, on their skins for 10 days, letting natural yeasts do their work. The wine is then aged for 10 months in used 300-liter barrels.

The 2022 Raiz Tinto offers notes of crushed raspberries, blackberries, and white pepper on the nose. The wine is both fresh and structured, with well-framed acidity and soft tannins, alongside its wild, rustic character. This will be versatile at the table—try pairing it with your favorite mole-based dish, or with grilled lamb shoulder wrapped in herbs. Give this wine a slight chill and a spot on the dinner table.