Quinta das Bágeiras Branco Reserva '21

One of Portugal’s most important quality producers, Bágeiras is located in Bairrada, an Atlantic-influenced region, just 15 kilometers from the coast. While Bágeiras is a longtime grower in the region, it wasn’t until 1989 that Mário Sérgio Alves Nuno decided to create estate-bottled wines rather than continue selling the grapes of vineyards belonging to his grandparents. He is dedicated to producing classic wines from his 24 hectares of vineyards. All the grapes are handpicked, and, although around 60% of his wines produced are sparkling, his still wines are equally notable. He firmly believes that quality means nothing without identity. So while Quinta das Bágeiras isn’t the oldest winery in Bairrada, it is traditional, and the wines speak to the region and to the identity of the people there. 

The white wines of Bairrada are some of the most underrated white wines in the world. The local grape varieties of this Atlantic-influenced region are Maria Gomes and Bical. Each grape has its own characteristics, but the sum of their parts are wines with a rare combination of texture, minerality, and acidity. Only in the best vintages does Mário Sérgio produce a reserva white wine.

The 2021 Branco Reserva is a blend of 60% Maria Gomes and 40% Bical. Fermentation starts in open-top bins with natural yeast, and the wine is aged in stainless steel tanks on its fine lees. The 2021 is beautiful, with aromas of lemon and lime zest, orange citrus leading to a well-balanced palate, with bright acidity, a continuation of citrus notes, and a long, complex finish. Absolutely delicious now, I can tell you from previous experience that this wine also gains in complexity as it ages. Buy this one by the case, one of the best Portuguese white wine values around!