Magoutes Xinomavro, Siatista P.G.I. '20

The Diamantis winery sits in the rugged, mountainous northwestern hinterland of Macedonia. Thanks to its high, inland isolation, it’s a place of stark beauty and cool climate that, unlike most of Greece, has no softening maritime influences. In this landscape sits Siatista, a town whose history with vines runs back to at least 1670, although because records have been lost or destroyed by various revolutions, wars, and conflagrations, the complete viticultural history of this area is somewhat obscured. 

 
In this windswept, arid locale, anchored on an impressively rocky limestone terroir, Diamantis Winery’s story goes back to the beginning of 20th century, when Dimitrios Diamantis’s grandfather, one of Siatista‘s leading grape growers, hand-grafted the now-centennial vineyard of the domaine on the family land. Yet as time passed and grape growing became less profitable, most of the region’s vineyards faded into obscurity until, by the 1970s, only a few old vines survived. In the early 1990s, the winery focused on protecting and reviving the varieties and managed to save enough genetic material to replant 18 hectares on the slopes of the Magoutes area (750–890 meters in altitude). All of this has been made possible by Dimitri’s energetic drive and the equal energy, conviction, and support of George Papageorgiou, his business partner, whose family also hails from Siatista. The two families share a common vision for their homeland: to protect and revive the region’s viticultural heritage and its potential to produce unique wines.

There is no debate that Xinomavro is Greece’s most important red grape varietal. This terrific Xinomavro outclassed almost every example of the grape from the various regions I visited in Macedonia back in 2022. The vineyards from which this Xinomavro comes sit between 750–890 meters above sea level. Combine that with the wind that blows through the valley, and you have the perfect setting for Xinomavro, with great natural acidity and freshness. 

For the “classic” bottling of Xinomavro, the grapes come from both old and young vines. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel and then age in 500-liter used oak barrels for 1–2 years. The wine is kept in bottle for another year before release. 

The 2020 displays notes of dark raspberry, cherry, and wild herbs on the nose. The palate is medium bodied, with soft tannins and a long bright finish. Incredibly complex now, this will continue to evolve in bottle over the next handful of years. Drink now with grilled lamb chops. An outstanding example of Xinomavro!