Lelievre “Leucquois" Methode Traditionelle, Lorraine, France NV

The Lelièvre domaine is in the town of Lucy, in the Côtes de Toul appellation of Lorraine, an area in northeastern France that lies to the west of Alsace. The domaine was founded in 1971 when Jean Lelièvre started bottling wine made from the family’s grapes rather than selling the fruit to other winemakers. The family grows Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Auxerrois, making three still wines and one sparkling wine. The brothers Vincent and David Lelièvre now run the estate.

Lorraine is a small wine producing area, with the Côtes de Toul appellation comprising about 110 hectares. Although it has been an appellation only since 1998, Côtes de Toul has a centuries-old history as a winemaking area. The Romans first planted vines here, and though the vines thrived for centuries, the arrival of phylloxera and then a series of wars, as well as the banning of the area’s grapes for use in Champagne once that region’s borders were delimited in the early 1900s, significantly reduced the vineyard area by the early 1950s. The area is little known to wine drinkers in the US, and most of the region’s wines are enjoyed locally. Yet its wines are well worth seeking out, especially if you favor lighter bodied wines with fresh acidity and minerality.

“Leucquois” is made from organically farmed Gamay, and only first-press juice is used. The grapes are hand harvested and crushed gently, and fermented is carried out with native yeast, in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 12 months on the lees, and dosage is 7 grams per liter.

Pair this sparkling wine with a range of dishes, though the cuisine often associated with Lorraine is also a great match, such as quiche Lorraine or pâté en croute, or any dishes featuring smoked salmon.