La Comarcal "Delmoro" Tinto '23

Although it may seem unlikely in such a well-known wine producing country as Spain, there are still regions to be discovered. One such place is Valencia, a distinctly Mediterranean-influenced region that is particularly suited to Rhône varieties. A perfect introduction to the red wine of Valencia is through the lens of Javi Revert and Victor Marqués of La Comarcal Viticultores, in the mountainous village of Venta del Moro. The duo met while working at Celler del Roure, one of the leading wineries in the region. In 2017 they launched their own winery, focusing on grapes from old mountain vineyards and local grape varieties. La Comarcal, which means “The District,” is certified organic, and the wines are made with native yeasts.

The 2023 “Delmoro” is composed of 80% Garnacha and 20% Syrah. The grapes are from vineyards near the village of Venta del Moro, and the age of the vines is between 15 and 50 years old. The Garnacha comes from a four-hectare single-vineyard named Paraje Guindal, planted in 1987. Bush-trained, old-vine syrah makes up the remainder. The grapes are hand harvested, 70% destemmed and crushed, while the other 30% are vinified as whole bunches. The grapes are fermented separately in stainless steel with native yeasts, followed by eight months aging in stainless steel for the Garnacha and concrete tanks for the Syrah. The two varieties are then blended and rested before a very light filtration, but no fining, before bottling.

The nose is surprisingly fragrant, with notes of ripe red cherry, blood orange, red plum, cherry blossom, and dried herbs. Medium bodied, with moderate tannins and refreshing acidity, and made in a fruit-driven, approachable style, this is great red to pair with light and medium fare, including seafood, as well as spicier dishes.