Graci Etna Rosato '25

Sicily is a place of extraordinary contrasts, and nowhere is that more evident than in its wines. From the powerful, sun-filled reds of the west to the oxidative traditions of Marsala, from the generous fruit of Vittoria to the lifted, haunting wines of Mount Etna, the island seems to contain several wine worlds at once. For me, Etna remains one of the most compelling of them all.

Graci is based in Passopisciaro, on the north slope of Mount Etna, in an area where viticulture has existed for thousands of years. The vineyards here sit between 600 and 1,000 meters above sea level, with dense plantings rooted in volcanic soils of remarkable complexity. Many of the vines remain ungrafted, protected from phylloxera by the singular nature of Etna’s soils. It is an extreme place to grow grapes: high altitude, strong sun, cool nights, old vines, and an active volcano looming above it all.
Alberto Aiello Graci has become one of the defining voices of this part of Etna. His approach is rooted in respect for tradition, native varieties, and the character of each vintage. In the vineyards, he works only with the classic grapes of the mountain, including Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for reds and rosato, and Carricante and Catarratto for whites. Herbicides are avoided, intervention is kept to a minimum, and the goal is always to preserve the energy, balance, and mineral expression of the volcanic soils.

The 2025 Etna Rosato is made from Nerello Mascalese, the great red grape of Etna, which seems perfectly suited to rosato in this high-altitude volcanic landscape. In the glass, the wine has an almost orange-pink hue, immediately setting it apart from more conventional rosés. The aromatics are delicate but expressive, with notes of white flowers, orange, marzipan, and wild strawberry, all carried by the tension and mineral precision that make Etna so distinctive.

What makes this wine so compelling is its balance of refreshment and seriousness. It is bright and lifted, but there is real depth beneath the surface; a rosato that can be enjoyed chilled on its own, yet has more than enough character for the table. Serve it with a crudo of John Dory or tomato salad.