Dao
There are very few wine regions in the world where I can’t decide whether I like the white wines or red wines better. The Dão region in north central Portugal is one such region where it is almost impossible to decide!
This past month, we introduced the fantastic red wine from a new project in the Dão called Domínio do Açor. Located in the subregion of Terras de Senhorim, under the watchful eye of the Serra do Açor mountain range (the fifth highest in continental Portugal), this small but exciting new project is in the tiny parish of Oliveira do Conde.
A group of Brazilian friends purchased the property a few years ago and tapped two of Portugal’s most impressive wine people to lead the project. Luís Lopes is an extraordinarily talented oenologist, and someone with deep knowledge of the Dão. He spent eight years working at Quinta da Pellada and in recent years has consulted with António Madeira on his project. Joining him is Guilherme Corrêa, originally from Brazil, and one of the country’s top sommeliers. He moved to Lisbon and became the head of a local wine distributor, while at the same time writing about wine for the publications Revista de Vinhos de Portugal and Gula do Brasil. Not only are Luís and Guilherme involved, but they also have wine veteran João Costa installed as viticulturist, Pedro Parra helping identify the soils in the various parcels, and Marco Simonit consulting on the pruning and canopy management. This is a wine dream team.
Speaking of that publication, Revista do Vinhos, I just learned today that the white wine from the Vinha Celta vineyard, which we included in our “Six for I’m Worth It” wine club, earned the publication’s honor of top white wine of the year in Portugal! It reflects the quality that can be achieved in the Dão.
This white wine from the Vila Romana vineyard is a blend of 26% Encruzado and the remaining 74% from Cerceal Branco and Malvasia Fina. These local varieties thrive in the granitic soil of the vineyard. The grapes are destemmed, crushed in a pneumatic press, with cold maceration and decantation for one day. They then ferment with native yeasts, although for the Encruzado, only 20% is in barrel with the rest in stainless steel. The wine is aged on the file lees for 11 months, with malolactic fermentation carried out.
This wine shows notes of both ripe stone fruits and fresh citrus, as well as savory characteristics, such as toasted nuts and herbs, along with bright minerality. It continues to gain in complexity as it opens in the glass.
My preference is to serve this with very simply prepared food, grilled fish such as turbot, a classic New England–style Lobster roll, or, if you can find some cheese from Serra da Estrela, that is a great match as well.
Perman
Portugal
Producer | Domino do Açor |
Mon–Fri Noon–8 / Sat 11–7
Closed on Sunday
1167 N Howe Street
Chicago, IL 60610
312.255.8990
orders@permanwine.com