Domínio do Açor Branco '23

There are only a handful of wine regions in the world where I find myself genuinely torn between the whites and the reds. Portugal’s Dão, in the north-central part of the country, is one of those rare places where choosing a favorite feels almost impossible.

Domínio do Açor is one of Portugal’s most exciting new projects, based in the Dão’s Terras de Senhorim subregion. The estate is located in the small parish of Oliveira do Conde, beneath the influence of the Serra do Açor mountain range, the fifth highest in continental Portugal.

The project began when a group of Brazilian friends purchased the property and assembled what can only be described as a dream team. Luís Lopes, one of Portugal’s most gifted oenologists, brings a deep understanding of the Dão, having spent eight years at Quinta da Pellada and more recently consulted with António Madeira. Alongside him is Guilherme Corrêa, originally from Brazil and widely regarded as one of the country’s top sommeliers. After moving to Lisbon, Guilherme became the head of a local wine distributor while also writing for Revista de Vinhos de Portugal and Gula do Brasil. The team also includes veteran viticulturist João Costa, soil specialist Pedro Parra, and renowned pruning consultant Marco Simonit.

This Vila Romana Branco is a blend of 82% Encruzado, with the remaining 18% composed of Cerceal Branco and Bical. These traditional Dão varieties are grown in the vineyard’s granitic soils, which lend the wine its precision and mineral drive. The grapes are destemmed and pressed pneumatically, followed by a brief cold maceration and one day of decantation. Fermentation is carried out with native yeasts; part is aged in barrel, while the remainder stays in stainless steel. The wine then ages for 11 months on the fine lees, with malolactic fermentation completed.

In the glass, it brings together ripe stone fruit and fresh citrus with more savory tones of toasted nuts, herbs, and a bright granitic minerality. It is expressive from the start, but the wine becomes even more layered and compelling as it opens.

I would keep the food simple here: a brandade of salt cod served over grilled polenta, a classic New England–style lobster roll, or, if you can find it, a piece of Serra da Estrela cheese.