Savoie
Bruno Lupin’s focus is on his Roussette de Savoie, which many regard as the premier definition of the Altesse grape in Savoie. The village of Frangy lies outside the main production area of Savoie, in the valley of the river Les Usses. The vineyards in Frangy are predominantly planted with an indigenous grape called Altesse, also known as Roussette, and the village has the special status of a cru of Savoie, one of four villages allowed the right to the Roussette de Savoie appellation with the village name. Within Frangy, Lupin’s estate vineyards all lie on the hillside Les Aricoques, and this slope is fully south facing, protected from the harsh northerly winds. Working with Altesse in this warmer microclimate in the village of Frangy, Bruno Lupin produces wines that are dramatically different from the average Savoie wine.
In the winery, Bruno is hands-off, with minimal intervention. After a manual harvest, native yeasts start the fermentation in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is spontaneous and partial, around 30%, as he looks for the right balance of body and freshness. The acidities are never corrected (a common practice in the region), and the wines ferment to dryness (less than 4 grams per liter). The latter point is important, as Altesse has very high acidity, and most producers leave a certain amount of residual sugar to cover that up, to the detriment of the wine’s structure and ability to age.
“Frangy” shows notes of stone fruit, quince, almonds, bergamot, and white mushroom. Medium-bodied and with bright acidity on the finish, Roussette pairs beautifully with soft, bloomy-rind cow’s milk cheeses as well as a wide range of dishes, such as tartiflette (potato-and-bacon casserole), fondue, baked or grilled fish, and green curry.
Perman
France
Producer | Domaine Bruno Lupin |
Mon–Fri Noon–8 / Sat 11–7
Closed on Sunday
1167 N Howe Street
Chicago, IL 60610
312.255.8990
orders@permanwine.com