Château d’Arcole Saint-Émilion Grand Cru '20

Bordeaux isn't the type of region you look to for the small family-owned Mom'n'Pops. But Château d'Arcole in Saint-Emilion is just such an operation. Run by Veronique Barthe and Philippe Gardère, and rooted in a couple hundred years of history dating back to the day Jean Barthe bought a vineyard with gold coins gifted him by Napoleon after the Battle of Arcole.

The wine is composed of 70% Merlot, but there's enough gravel in the vineyards here that a generous 30% Cabernet Sauvignon makes its way into this Right Bank blend. All vineyard plots are harvested amidst the buzz of insect life, and perhaps the lazy clop of a horse eating its way through the grass grown up between the vines. Château d'Arcole has in fact been practicing organic in the vineyards since the 1960s, unusual in a region whose weather can turn as precipitous and difficult as Bordeaux, and certified biodynamic as of 2008. 

The wine, too, is pleasantly busy and alive. With cherry fruit and a bright minty herbaceousness, nestled in a well judged cedar tone from 25% new oak, the rest in older barrel and stainless steel, and already well integrated and approachable should any duck confit or pork roasts cross your path.