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Selvagrossa "Cuchén" Marche Bianco '22
As many of you know by now, we adore the Taddei family, the force behind Selvagrossa, a winery in the Marche region of Italy. Brothers Alberto and Alessandro Taddei farm just a handful of hectares of vineyard in and around the town of Pesaro, and this Adriatic-influenced region produces wines of incredible personality. Pesaro is an overlooked treasure of a village in the northern Marche, hugging the Adriatic coast. As you travel by car south and west of the village, you find yourself winding down hillside roads with lush green pastures, farms, and an occasional factory or two. Libero Taddei, the grandfather of the current generation, Alberto and Alessandro, diversified his livelihood by planting vines on the hillsides. Sangiovese was a natural selection, but grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Franc were also found to be well suited to the vineyards. Today at Selvagrossa, there are almost four hectares of vineyards that surround Mamma Anselma’s house and the winery, and another half hectare they work with in a coastal vineyard north of Pesaro. The farming has been certified organic since 2017, but Selvagrossa has practiced sustainable farming for many years. The winery at Selvagrossa is very simple, not a lot of bells and whistles, but it makes delicious and complex wines.
“Cuchén” is one of the best-value Italian white wines you can find. It’s made from the indigenous and rare Albanella grape, which is a specialty of the hills around Pesaro. Alberto is working with a small grower named Carota, whose vineyard is located in Roncaglia, a commune northwest of Pesaro. Made famous by the Pinot Nero from Mancini, Roncaglia has very few vineyards, all of which are highly prized because of their proximity to the Adriatic Sea. “Cuchén” is so fresh, the type of wine you can easily finish a bottle of, even on your own. Non the nose, notes of citrus and herbs are complemented by a hint of stone fruit. The palate is dominated by mineral notes, and the finish is long and vibrant.
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