It is increasingly hard these days to find great Burgundy under, well, many price points, but especially $20, so it was a thrill to taste this Bourgogne rouge from Domaine Danjean-Berthoux. This is a pretty, joyful “bistro” wine, one that you can’t help but smile as you drink it.
Pascal Danjean is making excellent wine in the small village of Givry, in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise. When he inherited the family estate over 20 years ago, he made the decision to stop selling to local co-operatives and begin bottling his own wine. His first vintage was 1993. Since then he has also been busy planting, mostly in premier cru vineyards. Givry’s soil is driven by limestone that has a high proportion of iron and minerals, lending the wines a mineral depth. Pascal’s great focus is on the terroir; he does not fine or filter his wines, and rarely uses new oak barrels. His wines are soft but lively, bordering on classical but with a slight impishness.
“Chaume Ronde” is an incredible value for a Bourgogne rouge. On the nose, there are notes of bright cherry and forest floor. On the palate, a burst of fresh berries evolves into a more serious finish, grounding one in earth and minerality. Compared with the 2019, this is a bit brighter with more backbone and structure. While still quite accessible now, this is slightly more reserved than the very outgoing and friendly 2019. This is a great food wine and would play well with a country pâté or a roasted game bird and a salad of bitter greens.
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