Those of us looking for light-bodied, fresh reds sometime struggle to find alternatives outside the world of Pinot Noir and Gamay. Lucky for us, a small group of producers in the Penedès never gave up on the indigenous variety Sumoll. Once almost extinct, it has found new life with this group of dedicated producers. One such producer, and arguably the finest producer of Sumoll, is Celler Pardas.
Since Celler Pardas first found its beautiful Can Comas estate, Sumoll, along with the white grape Xarel.lo, has been the focus of the work in the vineyards. In the beginning years, the Sumoll story at Pardas was told through two wines: an age-worthy rosat and a superbly complex red called “Collita Roja.” In 2016, the duo behind Celler Pardas released a new red made from Sumoll, called “Sus Scrofa.” The idea for this wine was to make a young, energetic red that showed well in its youth.
The grapes are sourced from three vineyards, all organically farmed. Once the grapes are harvested and sorted,half are destemmed, crushed, and put in tank by gravity. The other half are kept as whole cluster. Pardas employs only native yeasts in its winemaking, and “Sus Scrofa” is fermented and aged in concrete tanks.
In our humble opinion, the 2020 is the finest vintage to date. Aromatically you may find some similarities to the Italian grape Dolcetto. We find notes of plum and red cherry, along with herbs and licorice. On the palate, the wine shows the vintage’s high acidity, delicate red berry notes, soft tannins up front, and a long, energetic finish. It is such a fun wine to drink, and truly an amazing value. Pair this with a mushroom risotto, or try grilling the classic Catalan sausage called Botifarra.
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